India Archive
Adventures in Spas
I always like getting spa treatments in other countries because you never exactly know what they are going to do to you. Extra anxiety points if you don't speak the language because you don't know how to politely tell them to stop.
I went for a facial in India before leaving Delhi to get rid of some of this caked in smog and pollution. Three weeks in China followed by three weeks in India and I'm amazed my skin has held up as well as it has. (I know everyone talks about smog in China, but in my experience pollution is worse in Delhi than Beijing.)
It was going ok. I was in a small room covered by yellow-and-white striped towels that I think my family used to unearth for beach trips. I was ordered to keep my eyes closed as my face was rubbed over and over rhythmically with some kind of mask. It was mostly relaxing. Then the woman got a load of my horribly ungroomed eyebrows.
"You're eyebrows are too long!" she exclaimed.
"Um, yeah I know, I've been traveling," I said. (I also haven't had a haircut in months. Thank God it was in a shower cap.)
"I need to take care of these!" she said.
"Um...ok."
"What do you do?? Tweeze them?"
"No I get them waxed, I've just been gone." (I'm getting more nervous here.)
"Oh, that's a horrible method."
"Well it usually works for--"
"Hold this skin tight!"
"Oh, ok."
Now remember, my eyes are still closed. She proceeds to start doing what feels like hacking away at my face with a straight edge razor. Tears are streaming out of my eyes and my grip keeps loosening on the skin around my eyebrow making it sting more. I was thinking, "How long do I have to endure this and what the hell could she be doing??"
Finally I said, "That really hurts!"
"It's better," she said. She finished with the left brow and I opened my eyes and said "How are you doing that? It's horrible!" I was half expecting to see a chainsaw in her hand. Instead she had a piece of string wrapped around two fingers, and held in her teeth. She smiled. "Indian method. Rips out the whole root."
"Is that razor wire?" I asked. She grabbed my hand and showed me on my arm hair. I'm still not sure how she did it-- but it was like one of those rope tricks kids do. She pulled the string from different angles causing it to wrap around the hair and then -- rip. I was so amazed at the ingenuity I let her do the other brow. They do look pretty good. (Even if they're still sore.) I didn't know anything could be more painful than waxing. American women really shouldn't complain!
Please Don't Make Me Leave this Comfy Bed
When you wake up this exhausted-- it's a problem. I am absolutely beat after five days traveling around Northern India, jolting along Indian roads, riding smelly animals, meeting nearly 100 local entrepreneurs and experiencing some of the best hospitality I've had during the whole book project.
I have a lot in my head I want to write, both for TechCrunch at the book, but there are too many things and they're all yelling. So I'm going to give them another day to settle down. I'd love to give them that day sitting on a massage table somewhere or doing some Yoga. Unfortunately, I've got a pile of meetings today too. Tomorrow, I head to Bangalore.
Here are some pictures from our weekend in Jaipur:
About Those Elephant Rides
Yes, Vivek Wadhwa finally found me an elephant to ride. It wasn't as scary as I thought I'd be. Kind of like an amusement park ride that spits all over you. Pictures follow.
India's omnipresent "bling" as applied to an elephant:
"You're not going to trample me right, Mr. Elephant?"
Leaving the station...
...and Twittering about it
"Can I Call You Back? I'm on a Camel Right Now."
Vivek Wadhwa actually said that as we were riding camels today. Yes, the trend of amazing cell coverage in emerging markets while I can't get a signal in my living room continues. I am far too tired to write a more salient post than that. So here are some pictures of me and a camel named Raju.
Raju: "Sigh. Another American wants a ride."
Note: I'm a little trepidatious about this whole camel thing at first...
Boarding all rows...
Raju takes a break. Exhausted from carrying me around.
Back on the camel.
And, you're done Raju. Drink up, pal. You've earned it.
Being on the camel wasn't really scary at all-- it was relaxing. We're supposed to be riding elephants today after a meet up with the Jaipur Chapter of TiE, an amazing group for connecting and supporting Indian entrepreneurs around the world.
I think the elephant will be scary.
International Travel Tip: DON'T BE NICE TO PEOPLE ON AIRPLANES.
There's one place in the world where I seem to break promises and that's on this site. Not only did I stop crossposting stuff from TechCrunch and promoting my BusinessWeek columns (something you know I'm remedying if you've been reading lately), but I also promised an international travel tip for each trip. And then I forgot. I suppose the China one could be "Don't split a bottle of Baijiu, or if you do, don't take valuable possessions out with you that night."
My India one is more cynical: Don't be nice to people on airplanes.
Last night, I was boarding the second leg of my flight to India-- a brutal 15 hour one. In coach. In what was supposed to be an exit row, but wasn't. In what was supposed to be an aisle seat, but wasn't. Behind two crying children. I saw the seat, and immediately made sure I'd packed either an Ambien or a suicide pill.
But it wasn't all bad. I wasn't dead-center of the row, had a tiny polite Indian man sitting next to me, and an empty seat on the other side. I can make that work.
Just then a guy came up and begged me to switch with him because he had an elderly grandfather he needed to sit next to. Everyone else in my section looked down at a magazine, hoping they wouldn't get asked in case I said no. I politely agreed to move, provided that he could find a place for my suitcase. Overhead space was at a huge premium on this flight and, as readers know, I NEVER check a bag. He said he'd just swap it with his bag. I didn't actually see this happen, he just came and told me he did and I took his word for it.
Oh, and I got to the seat-- dead center, next to a young child, in a seat that didn't recline. You've got to be kidding me.
The flight wasn't so bad, thanks to the Ambien and eight months of international travel that has trained me to go into a zen-like state even in the worst coach situation. I slept about 10 hours of it, and wasn't even that annoyed that the kid next to me pretty much slept half in my seat most of the time. Then we went to de-plane and wouldn't you know it? My bag is NOWHERE IN SIGHT. As you can see from the picture on the link above, it's a bright green bag and hard to miss. I had to wait for the entire plane to deplane, then I, the guy who I was doing "a huge favor for" and about three flight attendants searched every single bin on the plane. No bag.
They told me to leave the plane and go with an agent to arrivals where we'd try to find whoever took it. Oh lovely. In the tunnel from the plane to the gate, I looked at the guy and just said "Unbelievable." And he brushed it off saying, "Hey, it's not my fault. I put it in the bin." At which point-- after some 24 hours of travel and the prospect of nearly a month in India with no clothes-- I snapped a bit. "As far as I'm concerned this is exactly your fault. I did you a favor; I didn't see you move the bag; you were the last one to touch it and now it's mysteriously gone. That's certainly not my fault."
A flight attendant immediately snapped at me and told me I needed to take a deep breath and apologize to him. Um.....does anyone else think I was out of line? Under the circumstances, I think I'd been quite calm until this point.
Before I could cause a bigger scene, the suitcase was produced as if from nowhere by a flight attendant. "See it's not his fault!" she said.
"Where was it?" I demanded.
"In the bin where he said he'd put it," she said.
Hmm...that's interesting considering all five of us looked in that bin-- and every other bin on the plane-- and didn't see it. Reminded me of my favorite children's book "Morris's Disappearing Bag." American Airlines must have disappearing bins just to create such dramatic situations. I literally can not think of another answer. It's too bad they told me to leave the plane just minutes before it was reproduced, because I would have love to have seen that magic trick.
Anyway, I stomped off, went through customs and got in a car to the hotel. But I'm still annoyed that I gave myself a far-worse seat on a 15-hour plane ride, was essentially detained a good thirty minutes, and then got treated like the bad guy by everyone. That will teach me to be nice.
Of course, the really sad thing is I'm such a push-over I'd do it again if someone with an elderly grandparent asked. I'd just move the damn bag myself.
I have to add as a post-script: I hope this losing or almost-losing of bags on every trip isn't a new trend for me. I'm already on a backup backpack, borrowed camera, and spare laptop after the China-Baijiu debacle. It's particularly fitting given the working title of the book in progress is "Nothing to Lose." Pretty soon I'm going to embody it! And that's ironic because with my last book, "Once You're Lucky, Twice You're Good," plenty of reviewers mused that I may have just been lucky with the first book. I think I'm naming my third book: "I Just Won a Million Dollars" just in case there's something to the trend.
India: You're on Deck
I've still got another meeting-and-duck filled week in Beijing, but I'm already getting ready for my November trip: India. I have not been to India for the book yet, because I had Rwanda, Israel and China booked in the spring last year and everyone told me to wait until the fall when the weather would be nicer. As a result, it's going to be longer than my usual trips: Three weeks spread over Delhi, Bangalore and Mumbai.
I have no idea what to expect. I've talked to people who love India and people who hate it. There's an undeniable spirit of innovation and entrepreneurship that comes out of the country, but many of the investing numbers have been declining since a few years ago when the Valley really had India-fever. And most of the story of India in the Western press has had to do with R&D centers and outsourcing, not entrepreneurship, which is what I'm interested in.
There are a zillion connections between Silicon Valley and India, so I've already got a lot of suggestions of people to meet with and people to show me around. But if you know an *awesome* startup, feel free to send me an email at sarah(at)sarahlacy(dot)com (put "India" in the subject line) or leave it in the comments. I'd also love hotel recommendations. I'll probably have two more trips to India early next year for the book, so don't think the delay means the country is getting the short-end of the stick.
Staying Put for a While
I'm about one-third of the way through my 18-month death-march around the world seeking its best entrepreneurs, or as I call it in polite conversation, work on my new book. It's time for a break. Aside from a few day trips here or there I'm sticking in San Francisco for the next six weeks where I'll try to be a better blogger for TechCrunch, a more reliable columnist for BusinessWeek and get more actual writing on the book banged out. I'm going to keep working on learning Portuguese and Mandarin. I'm going to cook dinner for my husband. I'm going to reintroduce myself to my much-stood-up Pilates trainer. And I may even attempt to have a social life again.
I feel mixed about it. Most of me is screaming out for a break from 20-hour flights, endless meetings and the frustration that comes with interviewing someone from a totally different culture, who is frequently speaking a totally different language. (See photo to the right-- just moments before a speaking gig. See sadder photo below. Human rights groups are investigating.) On Thursday as I was packing up to leave my hotel in London, scouring for every stray sock or earring, wondering what I'd leave behind this time (sunglasses as it turned out), and hoping I'd allotted enough time for customs, security and the like-- I had a crushing feeling of I desperately, desperately need a month off!
But as I reflect on everything I've seen and experienced during the 10 weeks I've spent in Israel, Rwanda, China and London, another part of me can't wait to get back on the road. When I set out to write this book, I didn't totally know what I was getting into, aside from the hope that it'd be important and the certainty that it'd be life-changing on a personal level. The first few months I felt a bit lost and concerned, but now, six months in, it's coming together. I've written several thousand words, discovered stories so dramatic they could be made into films and the big macro themes of book are shaping themselves in my head every day. The book is becoming less of an epidsodic travel narrative and more of a, well, book. As much work as there is ahead, I know now I've got something, and that's a huge relief. (See photo to below taken in a happier, more rested moment. Although note my sad, tired computer is missing an "R" key.)
So as I pause for a bit, I wanted to thank everyone who's made the whole thing possible thus far: Dan Nova for introducing me to Rwanda, Roi Carthy and Orli Yakuel for being my den mothers in Israel, Tom Limongello for, well, everything in China, and Paul Carr for being my unofficial personal assistant in London, while Rachel Bremer set me up with some of the most impressive companies I've seen in the UK to date. Huge thanks also to Endeavor-- the experts in emerging world entrepreneurship, and to BusinessWeek and TechCrunch for being endlessly supportive of this suicide-mission. And, of course, Olivia for taking care of the kitties in my absence, and Mr. Lacy for somehow putting up with all of this.
After the break, I'll finish the year with Brazil, China, India, and back to Israel. As always, let me know anyone I must meet.
[PHOTO CREDITS: Ayelett Noff, JD Lasica, Craig Newmark]
Big News! Also, Yes, I Am Back at TechCrunch
As loyal readers know I’ve been spending quite a bit of the last few months quietly working on some pretty radical and exciting career changes. I’ve already blogged about my role shifting at Yahoo's TechTicker, and the fact that I’m cutting out almost all conferences this year. I'm finally able to talk about the last two pieces of news today, and you’ll see why it was crucial for me to make a little more time in my schedule.
The first one is something I’ve been working towards since December 2007: I’ve finally closed my next book deal. Before I tell you about it, let me step back and say that the experience of writing “Once You’re Lucky, Twice You’re Good” was probably the most exhilarating and challenging thing I’ve ever done in my life. I knew I wanted to do another book, but I was worried that anything would pale in comparison.
Business reporters are rarely in the middle of something that’s also a mass cultural movement, the way Web 2.0 was. And it’s even rarer to be the reporter in the middle of that trend early-on, with near-unfettered access. The book was also the culmination of ten years of covering startups and the Web, with so many of the themes of the book coming out of articles I’d written week-after-week and conversations at endless breakfasts, lunches and dinners with investors, coders and nearly everyone who makes up the Valley ecosystem. I worked hard, but I was also in the right place at the right time, and I didn’t think it was possible that I’d find another book that I could be that passionate about again.
Then, a month after finally turning it into my publishers in 2007, I was sitting on a beach in Mexico and my next idea hit me. (My husband may never take me on vacation again.)
The new book is about global entrepreneurship. What I don’t mean by that is globalization or social entrepreneurship. It’s the story of real, ambitious, risk-taking entrepreneurs in emerging markets around the world who are taking advantage of the turmoil all around them to build huge businesses, the Western venture capital money that’s trying to invest in them, and the cultural chasm the two are, so far, having a hard time crossing. To tell this story right, I’m going to spend between 30-40 weeks on the ground in Israel, China, India, Africa and Mexico/South America over the next year and a half. If you follow me on Twitter, you know I've actually already started. It works out to roughly 2-3 weeks at a time overseas, followed by 2-3 weeks here, and a few months with no travel here and there for sanity. My publisher is John Wiley & Sons and, yes, I was border-line insane to try to sell a book in this market. Huge thanks to them for believing in the project so much, and my agent, Daniel Greenberg, for pulling off the impossible once again.
I’ll still keep a foot firmly planted in Silicon Valley—after all, it’s an integral part of this story, too. And I’ll still write my Valley Girl column for BusinessWeek and do three-to-four interviews per month plus my daily Valley Buzz post for TechTicker. I’ll also still appear on NBC’s Press:Here during the weeks that I’m in town.
So, to sum up, we've got a column, I'm hosting one show, commuting an hour to be a regular guest on another and traveling around the world to write a book…is that enough to keep me busy? Hardly. That’s why I’m also announcing that I’ll have an ongoing gig with TechCrunch. Actually, Michael Arrington already did. Given my other responsibilities, I won't be there everyday, but I’ll be writing two-to-five posts per week, likely a lot on the weekends, a lot on airplanes and a lot from the road. You're better off sending announcements about your latest product launch wherever it is you send them now, because I’ll be focusing on analysis of the business of Silicon Valley, emerging markets and the collision between them.
While I've been working on pulling the book together for more than a year, no one is more surprised than I am at the TechCrunch announcement. You should have seen the Cheshire cat "I won" grin on Michael Arrington's face when we finished negotiating it all. He and I have had an ongoing Abbot-and-Costello routine about how I'd never write there because I was too busy and liked writing on this site too much.
But when I filled in for him in February, my thoughts changed. Trolls aside, I was blown away by the level of engagement and love for that blog among entrepreneurs around the world. It's not just a blog about Silicon Valley and Web 2.0. Subscribing to newspapers or business magazines doesn't really mean you read them. (Ask the tall plastic-wrapped stack in my hallway.) But TechCrunch readers read every single thing on that site, chew it up, digest it, spit it out and talk to their friends about it. It seemed the perfect place to write about what I was seeing on the road as the book unfolds, because I'm well aware I can't write this book alone. It needs a community. After all, a world of entrepreneurs is a pretty big topic.
I'm not killing SarahLacy.com. I'll be cross-posting my TechCrunch stuff here, linking to BusinessWeek and Yahoo stuff, and writing more personal posts about my experiences on the road as I travel. And yes, we'll have FlipCam footage.
I said in an interview late last year that my next book would be "stupidly ambitious" and I think I've delivered on that promise. I hope you enjoy the journey as much as I know I will.
China Walloping India
Where have I been all day? Looking through VC numbers. Here are a few segments I did for Tech Ticker on yesterday's mixed news about U.S. venture capital in China, and below a piece on today's news about U.S. venture capital in India.
Both regions became the new black a few years ago and billions were invested, offices were opened, partners were relocated. And most VCs I talk to regret it, but at the same time don't feel like India and China are markets they can afford to ignore. I don't think this gets covered enough here, given it'll heavily influence at least the next 10-year venture capital cycle, which you can't divorce from the health of the Valley as a whole. We're in the midst of a huge change in this asset class in a lot of directions and local to global is one of the most pronounced that could make or break firms. It's important enough I plan to visit both India and China in the next year (hopefully!) to check out the startup scene first hand. Enough extrapolating from data!
But for now, back to the data...This quarter we saw some retrenching and refocusing in a pretty major way. Watch the videos for the details. Spoiler alert: China is waaaaay hotter than India. That was a surprise to me because I hear more hand wringing about China anecdotally.

New Book
An unforgettable portrait of the emerging world's entrepreneurial dynamos Brilliant, Crazy, Cocky is the story about that top 1% of people who do more to change their worlds through greed and ambition than politicians, NGOs and nonprofits ever can. This new breed of self-starter is taking local turmoil and turning it into opportunities, making millions, creating thousands of jobs and changing the face of modern entrepreneurship at the same time. To tell this story, Lacy spent forty weeks traveling through Asia, South America and Africa hunting down the most impressive up-and-comers the developed world has never heard of....yet.
Buy it from these sellers
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