Africa Archive

Hawkers, Hackers, Entrepreneurs and Movie Stars: Stories from My Trip To Nigeria

2011_Nigeria_Day_04_028_web I've finally finished my TechCrunch posts about my week in Nigeria. There's been a little controversy, as always. But nothing close to the tension and intensity we experienced in the country.

I started out with a photo essay about "Computer Village," where many Nigerians go to buy technology or get it repaired. One or two attention-seeking Nigerian bloggers got upset about this post saying it wasn't reflective of Nigerian tech entrepreneurs. Um.....yeah, that's why I didn't say it was. I don't consider the Best Buy in San Francisco the braintrust of Silicon Valley either. But it's always interesting to see how everyday people around the world buy and consume technology produced by US companies. To check out the post, go here

*This* was my post on Nigerian tech entrepreneurs. The scene is definitely more nascent than what I've seen in countries like Brazil or Indonesia,  but I was really impressed by a few companies I met. My favorite was a company called Gyst. Read all about them and the other startups I met here. The article also talks about some of the unique challenges to starting companies in Nigeria: In particular an insanely skewed dual economy thanks to oil money and corruption and the stigma Nigerian scammers have cast over the legit tech community. 

My next two stories were about the insane world of Nollywood, or Nigerian filmmaking. It's the second largest film industry in the world by volume, a potential goldmine and an industry that captures all the unique nuances of the Nigerian spirit-- both good and bad. If the post on tech entrepreneurs represents the hopeful case for the country, and the reality of 419 scamming represents the most troubling side of the country; Nollywood is right down the middle. A good story turned into a great story when we got detained by a vigilante court and had to bribe our way out.  You have to click on a story that starts out: "It was when they pulled out the machetes that I started to worry."

For glimpses of the chaotic market where Nollywood movies are bought and sold, go here

Finally, today I posted what I expect will be the most controversial story from my trip. It's about the world of 419 scammers in Nigeria. I spent my last day in Nigeria talking to about a dozen current and reformed scammers, and it was chilling and fascinating at the same time. Westerners will probably feel like I'm glorifying criminals; many Nigerians will feel like I'm bringing more attention to the national stereotype that plagues them. But, as I argue in the post, Nigeria has to face and tackle this problem if it is going to realize its potential in the emerging world, and I wanted to understand the people behind the emails and attacks. 

Not surprisngly, they share a lot of the same characteristics of great entrepreneurs-- which is terrifying and encouraging for Nigeria's future, depending on the path the country takes. I tried to present their stories without judgement, but I found the toll that a life of crime had taken on these "Yahoo boys" heartbreaking. From one current scammer: 

“You white people have very flexible hearts. We’ve seen it. That’s why there can be no true love in Nigeria. Your closest friends rip you off here.” He continued, “I wish I could stop. I’m not into the black man power like some people. I don’t want to make someone sell their house; I don’t want to take everything. I just can’t find a job. If I had a junior brother I wouldn’t teach him. You get addicted to it.”

For the full story, head here. It's a fascinating country that will change a lot in the next five to ten years. I hope we get to go back.

Later today, I head to Berlin to speak at the Next11 conference, and meet with several German entrepreneurs. After that, I'll head directly to New York for TechCrunch Disrupt. Wish the baby and me luck kicking an annoying cold that came back from Omaha with us. 

So *That's* What 10,000 People Looks Like...

Platform_Nigeria_060_web Today I spoke at the Platform, an event in Nigeria put on by the Covenant Christian Centre aimed at inspiring Nigerians to think outside the box. I was a little intimidated. Not only was the site on the same grounds where Nigeria declared independence, but I was sharing the stage with some amazing speakers. And there were 10,000 people in the audience and millions more watching on national television and the livestream online. Quite the gig.

Here's a glimpse of what it looked like-- only the audience fanned out from the stage in a T-shape, so the camera only captures a fraction of the people there. (I'm the tiny speck on stage above.) It was amazing looking out at all the faces, hungry for inspiration. Hopefully they left happy!

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After the big keynote, we did smaller breakout sections. I did my first keynote about the different types of innovation I found during my 40-week journey around the emering world. For the second one, I talked about lessons entrepreneurs should learn from Silicon Valley's ecosystem, and traits of Silicon Valley they shouldn't try to replicate. Pregnant lady on parade! 

 

Platform_Nigeria_074_web

My poor baby must be sick of my keynotes. I remember once in junior high someone asked me the definition of existentialism, expecting to stump me and I rattled it off without batting an eyelash. I wasn't a prodigy-- my dad was just a philosopher and I grew up listing to that stuff. Likewise, after all these keynotes my baby is going to be born knowing the GDP, population and growth rates of the seven largest emerging markets. 

Finally, here's me with Pastor Poju-- the head of The Covenant Christian Centre and the organizer of the event. And below, there's me with some of the staff. They put on an amazingly seamless event. 

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Sprinting for the End of the Year

I am exhausted. I think I have parasites in my sides. And I keep getting a low-grade fever and some mild neck pain. After the year I've had, I have no idea what might be in my system. But somehow I think the calendar magically turning January 1, 2011 will mean I'm recovered from the book and all better. Maybe that's silly, but I'm clinging to it. Just have to make it through December.

I have some changes in my life. You know, again. In addition to other stuff, I've taken over daily video duties for TechCrunchTV. Go here to check it out. I wasn't dying to put on makeup every day, but it's a really fun shift after the heavy research, travel and writing of the book-- the same way my Yahoo show was after the first book. And I love working around the corner from Mr. Lacy after two years of working halfway around the world from him. But getting in the daily rhythm of blogging, daily videos, still doing some travel and wrapping up all these book edits has been a big challenge. I'm better at book writing than blogging or video, for sure. In the old media world I was super productive. In the new media world I barely produce anything. And I'm producing more now. But who wants a job that's easy, right? 

I am really excited to go home to Memphis for a few weeks at Christmas. IN PART because my amazingly talented brother is making me a new action figure. He made me one a few years ago called Sarah Lacy Girl Reporter that made my mundane life in Silicon Valley sound comic-book-worthy. Then, he made an action figure for my husband that was even more amazing. Now, he's making a Sarah Lacy Girl Reporter World Traveler Edition action set, and I can't wait to see it.

My brother excels at designing the packaging and the accessories that go with the figure. Mr. Lacy's had a camera, a tiny bottle of Jager (with real Jager in it), a frying pan because the only meal he cooks is breakfast, a hammer because he was doing a lot of work on our house, some records from his DJ days and little mini-copies of his Sadkids photo zines.

The packaging of my first action figure had these awesome comic-book like panels depicting me, say, taking the chopper to Sand Hill Road. My brother told me this one has travel photos, ala, me in Rwanda:

Gorilla

Amazing. He asked Mr. Lacy to take a picture of his action figure-- I think so it'll be in the Skype window on my action figure's laptop. Are you kidding me??? My brother should get paid thousands of dollars to make these for the egomaniac who has everything. 

 

How Emerging Markets Are Like Dating

I've been with my husband for about 11 years, so I haven't dated for a long time. Instead, I have--bizarrely-- substituted emerging markets for that crush/first-date-euphoria/ew-that's-an-ugly-quality/OK-I'm-sick-of-you-now cycle of emotions.

For instance, as discussed here and Tweeted one million times, I have a raging crush on Kenya right now. Sometimes I'm just daydreaming and people say "What are you thinking about?" and I'm like "Oh, Kenya." I hope to go early next year. Like many crushes, I may find I've just built Kenya up in my mind, and it's not that great. But I almost guarantee you for the first 24 hours I WILL LOVE IT.

How can I say that with such certainty? Because I love any emerging market for the first 24 hours. Singapore is no different. I've been here a day and I'm just blown away. I wonder if there's an endorphin link between jetlag and loving a new country? Anyway, I'm in sponge-mode asking a jillion questions and taking it all in, so I'm not ready to write much intelligent about it yet. But soon.

Meantime the worst and best part of my day:

Best: This is HANDS DOWN the easiest country for getting local mobile access. That's a little unfair, because China is pretty damn easy. But in China, I have to at least point and guesture because I don't speak Chinese and I usually just get basic voice service. Here I walked into a 7/11, and within a few minutes got a local SIM card and week's worth Blackberry service for less than $20. WHAT!? That's amazing. It took an hour to set up, because I have a brand new Bold, and they hadn't set one up before. Indeed, Blackberry has made some stupid changes to its operating system, and I've even been confused by how to do anything on the phone. I was late for a meeting, so I just left the Blackberry, came back and it was done. Wait, I don't know anyone in this country and I just left a new several-hundred-dollar phone with a clerk in a 7/11? Yes. Singapore.

Worst: The streets are almost too clean. It's raining constantly and people are just hosing down the pavement everywhere I go. I walked out of my hotel this morning and promptly slipped and fell. It looked about as cool as it sounds. What's more: I've slipped and almost fallen three more times. Upside: Streets are so clean my scrapes probably won't get infected.

 

Out of Africa

Sldc-topoftheworld I left Cape Town yesterday (depending on which time zone I count) to fly to Indonesia—which is almost the same travel distance as I originally came from San Francisco. Thank goodness Cape Town didn’t disappoint because it wasn't exactly on the way.

It is one of those cities like San Francisco and like Rio that is just naturally, visually stunning and is filled with people who are just infectious. I am planning to write several posts for TechCrunch about the entrepreneurship there, you know, when I get five minutes to sit and write something. (Well, something smart.)

In the meantime, some closing images of two of the things I loved about Cape Town.

The crustaceans:

Sldc-capetownyum

And a rotating trolley car ride up Table Mountain. Best part of this video may be the semi-inane tourist banter in the background. It’s the same everywhere isn’t it?

Top of the World from sarah lacy on Vimeo.

The weird thing was that I was in no way scared, even though I was terrified when I went to Sugar Loaf mountain in Rio. Must have been all those shady Endeavor entrepreneurs I was with…;)

My big regret is that I didn’t go to Robben Island on this trip, especially since I’d just finished Nelson Mandela’s biography and watched Invictus on the plane. But I only had one sunny day and not enough time. Hoping I get an excuse to come back and bring Mr. Lacy.

How Do I Care Enough About Soccer to Have a World Cup Delimma?

Damn you, emerging markets!

Americans just hate soccer. It's boring. And I say this as someone who goes to 20+ baseball games a year. (When I'm actually in the US that is)

And yet somehow I am not only excited about the World Cup, I feel like a total nerd for coming-to-and-then-leaving South Africa just before the World Cup. WORSE: I am really having some angst about who to root for.

A few problems:

1. I really don't understand how the World Cup works or know what countries are still in contention.

2. I fall in love with every country and have been to too many countries this year. 

3. Entrepreneurs from different countries keep asking in passing if I'm rooting for them. I don't know how to answer. (See also #1)

If you can help me with any of these, please leave it in the comments.

My Experiment (Plus GIVE IT A REST WITH THE IPADS ALREADY CAPE TOWN!)

Ok, first off, I've been to two dinners and a lunch in Cape Town in my 24 hours in town and AT EVERY GATHERING AN IPAD HAS COME OUT OF A BAG AND DOMINATED CONVERSATION FOR A GOOD 30 MINUTES. I'm kidding with the all caps here, but it is becoming a meme. Considering I'm speaking at a Web conference tomorrow, I'm half-serious when I say they might ask to see mine before they let me in. I'm bringing it just in case.

Second, my experiment: I am going to try to post *something* on this site every day of this absurd five week, three country, two continent trip. (Don't expect deep. All of my deep thoughts are taken by the book or TechCrunch these days.)

So: Today was awesome. I worked in the morning, then went to a lunch with some awesome entrepreneurs. People like me say things like "I had lunch with some awesome entrepreneurs" a lot when they travel to sound nice, but honestly, I was hugely impressed by the level of business sophistication with these guys. The companies included Skyrove, a wi-fi hotspot company that charges by the bandwidth not the hour, GetSmarter, an e-learning company (that's a lame category in much of the US but actually quite interesting in the emerging world), Personera, a company that takes a modern approach to - gasp - PRINT, and Evly, a company that may still be in stealth, I can't remember. Here's a picture. (Notice the clean plate in the foreground and then look at the rest of our plates. It was taken by Eric Edelstein of Evly. He was hungry or just really anxious to take a picture.)

Capetownlunch

To be fair, this was a lunch where Vinny "Not the Cat" Lingham hand-picked entrepreneurs he thought I'd like. Tomorrow, at the Net Prophets conference I should get a bigger sample set of what Cape Town has to offer. I'm excited.

After lunch, we went on a staggeringly beautiful drive. Here's a picture of that. (I look somewhat silly trying to pull my hair into a ponytail because the wind was blowing it all in my face, ala Cousin It)

Capetownme

And then, we went to a dinner with a bunch of Net Prophets organizers and speakers. My half of the table talked about aristocrats, porn, vegetarianism, why people are jealous of Cape Town, and whether Invictus was the most exciting chapter of Nelson Mandela's life to capture in a major Hollywood picture. (AND THE IPAD.) And, for some weird reason, Jason Calacanis kept coming up.

Sorry, no picture. But here's an iPad:

Ipad

I'm in Cape Town

Finally got here last night after about two days of flying and had an awesome dinner with Vinny Lingham, of Yola, who convinced me to come here and two guys from Naspers, a huge South African company that I've become increasingly obsessed with because they are gobbling up stakes in the best Internet companies in emerging markets around the world. To boot, one of them looked exactly like Clark Kent. A massive plate of crustaceans also joined us for dinner, and I ate all of them.

It was pretty much a perfect first evening in a new country: Intense conversation about investing in emerging markets and what's lacking in the Valley right now, amazing food, and some good sparkling South African wine. And, of course, it wouldn't be an evening without someone pulling out an iPad an ensuing debate about its place in the future of media. Around the world, it seems, that topic doesn't get old.

Also, I'm staying at an amazing hotel it turns out. It's like the loft apartment I never had.

Vinny has planned an elaborate itinerary that is mostly a mystery to me. The only thing I know for sure that I'm doing is speaking at the Net Prophets conference on Thursday.

On an absurd side-note, Vinny is the only human Vinny I think I've ever known. Loyal readers know I have a beloved cat named Vinnie who I've had since I was 20-years old. Every time I type or think of Vinny Lingham I giggle picturing my cat running a company. He'd be a horrible CEO.

Vinny the guy:

Vinny

Vinnie the cat (wearing a water bottle top on his head like a bell boy's cap):

Vinniebellhop

Resemblance? Vinny Lingham is lucky he spells his name differently or I'd be tempted to swipe like nameplates, his personalized license plate, and the like.

I'm Back. And I'm Leaving Again.

My new daugther Hey everyone. I am back from Rio. I was totally MIA while I was there, again, because of threats from Brazil. So I've been posting stuff to TechCrunch about my trip and FRANTICALLY trying to get a chunk of the book drafted before I leave again....Sunday.

First off, Rio was simply wonderful. I stayed on the beach in Leblon and found if i could run jump in the ocean for even 10 minutes before or in the middle of a day of meetings I felt completely reinvigorated. I also loved wandering around the neighborhood (during the DAY of course.) Aside from that, I met some cool companies and had some really life-changing experiences. I flew and then trucked out to the basin of the Amazon where BS Construtora is building a 1,600 house village. (More on that here.) And spent a day exploring the slums around Brasilia with an entrepreneur who grew up amid drug runners and now is starting and Internet company in Sao Paulo. Then flew back to Rio and spent some time in a pacified favela with a company that's spent a decade building computer labs in the most hard-core slums. What I don't write about on TechCrunch in the next week will be in the book. Oh, I also met a couple who own a trout farm. They said I could come work on it if this whole writing thing doesn't work out. Mr. Lacy says he's game.

One of the cutest things ever happened in the favela, by the way. A little girl-- dressed like an Indian for "indigenous people's day"-- just came up and grabbed my hand like we were friends. (See photo above.) Kids are always fascinated by foreigners. I've had them giggle, point, show me around, shyly ask me where I'm from, but none has just come up and hold my hand like we'd known each other for years. The level of trust from a child in a community that can't yet trust the city's pacification efforts showed how much things could change in a generation if the city stays committed to this. And thanks to the pressure from the World Cup and the Olympics coming to Rio, there's reason to be optimistic. I was so caught off guard and charmed and wanted to scoop her up and take her home. Wouldn't you?

Second off, the book. I've been talking with my publishers about titles and cover art so it's nice evidence I will actually have something tangible to show for all this work. I am somehow, amazingly, ahead of schedule. I spent the last week finishing drafting the section on India, and I'm drafting the section on Brazil now, hoping to finish it before I go. That leaves only Indonesia, Rwanda (which is half written) and the Epilogue and a TON of revising before my August 1 deadline. I can't actually believe I'm going to make it. The publishers do not want it over 70,000 words so I am really pruning and pruning each chapter. A lot of great stories are getting cut out, but I do think it's making the book stronger in the end. You will quite literally get a world of entrepreneurship in less than 300 pages.

Third off, I'm leaving again. For a long time. Five weeks. The longest trip yet. I have no idea what I was thinking, but now, barely recovered from the last trip I'm looking at this schedule and wondering if I'm going to make it. Fortunately, I'm equally as excited about it. Adrenaline don't fail me now... I am going to Cape Town, South Africa first where I'm speaking at the Net Prophets conference. Then, I head to Indonesia where I'll report around for two weeks and hopefully find some cool stuff. (Mr. Lacy is meeting me for the second week in Indonesia.) Then, I head to China for the last time. I've been to China more than any other country and somehow that section of the book has the most holes because so much has been off the record. I'll be a bit all over the place, including some smaller cities. Smaller being the operative word-- nothing is actually small in China.

Fourth off, reading list update. I am reading Nelson Mandela's autobiography now which is pretty great and I plan to finish before my flight. Taking with me "A History of South Africa," "A History of Modern Indonesia," "Asian Godfathers" and "China: Fragile Superpower." Amazingly I'll only have eight books left in my INSANE stack of reading once I knock those out. I have so much stuff about so many places coursing through my head I am forgetting basic things like, phone numbers and names.

Fifth off, packing. I haven't yet done five weeks out of carry-on luggage. There's going to be a lot of sink-washing going on...

My Favorite Books about Emerging Markets

IMG00031 I find the most helpful thing to do while writing a book is to read lots of books. Not only do you learn a lot about whatever you are reading about, but you see what works and doesn't work when it comes to voice, structure, tone and other dorky things authors obsess about.

Here's my current pile of reading-- the ones on the left are still to be read, the ones on the right are done. Actually both piles have gotten higher since I took that photo, and the pile on the right is just a bit taller now. But that won't last. Like Sisyphus, I stupidly keep buying books once the to-read pile starts to look remotely manageable.

I usually refrain from writing about books, because it's not much of a review if you only write nice things, and as an author its hard for me to write bad things about something someone worked really hard on. Just getting a book DONE can feel like a Herculean task and no book is going to be perfect for every reader. But someone asked me for a list of my favorites so here you go.

1. The Post-American World by Fareed Zakaria. It's really hard to write one compelling book about large, disparate chunks of the world (trust me on this) and Zakaria is one of the few that pulls it off. He's incredibly gifted at pulling together lots of strands to make one compelling central argument. My book mostly starts with the assumption that emerging markets are where the most economic growth is going to take place in the next few decades, but Zakaria's book explains why and what America's place in that world will be.

This is my only quibble: Indian nationals are incredibly patriotic and Zakaria is no different. There was a subtle shift in tone when he wrote about India and I felt like-- on the margins-- Zakaria cut India more slack on certain things. For instance, he praised the legal system put in place by the Brits. It may have been set up well back in the colonial days, but no one in India would tell you the legal system is anything to brag about today. Narayana Murthy, the co-founder of Infosys, told me that it would take 320 years to try all of the pending and backlogged cases in the Indian courts. "Can you imagine?" Murthy said laughing at the absurdity. 

Still, this is hands-down the best overall book I've read on globalization and I highly recommend it.

2. India after Gandhi: The History of the World's Largest Democracy by Ramachandra Guha. I wish there was a book this good on the history of every country I'm visiting. It's whopper at some 800 pages, but Guha, a historian, takes you on an unbiased, thoroughly researched and riveting journey through India's first fifty years or so of independence. I came away understanding modern India a lot better and wondering why an over-the-top biopic had never been made about Indira Gandhi.

3. Democratic Brazil Revisited.  I wish there was a book this good on politics like this for every country I'm visiting. This book is a collection of essays by academics that break down every aspect of Brazil's democracy-- from education to violence to economic and social policy. It's the update to an earlier edition that predicted some choppy waters for the Lula administration. Surprisingly, when they revisited the topic four years later, the researchers found that overall Brazil's democracy had outperformed their expectations. For what's essentially a text book, it's also amazingly readable.

4. Factory Girls: From Village to City in a Changing China by Leslie T. Chang. I mentioned this one in my last post but it bears mentioning again because it is one of the best books I've read over the last year or so. It actually makes me a little angry at how good it is. Factories in China are one of those topics everyone feels entitled to have an opinion on and it's usually: They treat workers like crap and make low quality stuff. What Chang uncovered by living among the girls powering China's factory boom was quite different. It was the story of empowered, ambitious young women taking low level opportunities and creating whole careers out of them. It tells you so much about the culture of modern China and is engrossingly written. As a writer, Chang doesn't get carried away with the sound of her own voice. She lets the stories of the girls unfold simply and beautifully.

There's not much info on Chang online. She doesn't appear to have written another book and I can't tell if she's even still a reporter. I hope she is. I also hope this book made her a lot of money because she deserves every penny.

5. We Wish to Inform You That Tomorrow We Will Be Killed With our Families by Philip Gourevitch. The world's longest and most confusing title, I know, but this is the definitive book on the Rwandan genocide. It's heartbreaking, eye-opening and frankly, will make anyone in the world with a soul embarrassed at how much we let Rwanda down some 15 years ago. Gourevitch did a follow up piece last year in the New Yorker about how Rwanda had rebuilt itself, that only barely scratched the surface of the strength and almost super-human forgiveness of the Rwandan people. Not only do I highly recommend this book, I highly recommend that anyone travel to Rwanda to see this amazing country for themselves. 

Part insightful analysis of what ails Silicon Valley and part madcap journey to far flung hubs of aspiration and innovation, Sarah Lacy takes us around the world in 180 pages to find the fascinating people who are creating the new wealth in a new world of start ups and ventures that America ought to be paying a lot more attention to.
Brilliant. Crazy. Cocky.

New Book

An unforgettable portrait of the emerging world's entrepreneurial dynamos Brilliant, Crazy, Cocky is the story about that top 1% of people who do more to change their worlds through greed and ambition than politicians, NGOs and nonprofits ever can. This new breed of self-starter is taking local turmoil and turning it into opportunities, making millions, creating thousands of jobs and changing the face of modern entrepreneurship at the same time. To tell this story, Lacy spent forty weeks traveling through Asia, South America and Africa hunting down the most impressive up-and-comers the developed world has never heard of....yet.

Excerpt »

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Srah Lacy

Sarah Lacy is an award-winning reporter who has covered high-growth entrepreneurship for more than fifteen years. She is the founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief of PandoDaily.com, the site-of-record for the startup ecosystem. She lives in San Francisco.

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